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Monday, July 6, 2009

Restaurant review: Craft

We kicked off 4th of July weekend with a memorable dinner at Tom Colicchio's Craft in New York City. The restaurant itself is beautiful - sleek and modern but with comforting colors. Blond wood tables and leather on the walls provide a warm atmosphere, as does the gentle light from filament bulbs hanging from the ceiling.

Upon being seated, we were welcomed by our waiter, served some water and then presented with the menu. The menu at Craft is somewhat different. There are several sections of first courses, then main courses and then sides. The idea is to pick a main and sides that go well together - in other words, to craft your own meal. For some that might be intimidating but the waitstaff answer any questions politely and knowledgeably. For me, it was a chance to have a little fun! The menu was full of fresh seasonal ingredients with some not-so-common things too!

Jeff and I each selected a first course that was a little unusual. I picked stinging nettle agnolotti. These were delicious little agnolotti stuffed with a bright green stinging nettle mixture. Simply prepared, they were garnished with just a touch of fresh cheese. Jeff thought they were a little plain, but I enjoyed them. He ordered the pig Ballotine (vegetarians beware!). The waiter had to explain to us that Ballotine is made by using the snout, feet, ears and other interesting pig parts. They're seasoned and cooked in a roll and then thinly sliced. It was served cool on a platter with tiny fresh seasonal vegetables that were lightly pickled. I tried it (with some hesitation) and it was really quite good - the meat had a rich deep flavor and the tiny morels and other veggies provided a perfect contrast.

For our mains, I chose braised halibut which was finished with an almond foam. Jeff selected braised short ribs. We shared garlic risotto and their signature hen-of-the-woods mushrooms for sides. I love halibut and I order it or cook it as often as I can get my hands on it. This was the best cooked halibut I've ever had. Each bite was tender and juicy.

The braised short ribs simply melted in your mouth. The best word I can think of for them is luxurious. Silky and rich, they were perfectly caramelized and were served with a few tiny onions and carrots.

The risotto and mushrooms were both perfectly prepared as well. Not a bite remained!

We don't always have dessert but we felt like trying something at Craft. We shared their Boston Cream donuts. Two small homemade Boston cream donuts were served with a small dish of cheesecake ice cream and a shot glass of malted chocolate milk. On the side was some homemade blueberry compote full of big juicy blueberries. The dessert was definitely good, but the dinner itself was much better.

We finished off the meal by sharing a glass of Moscato d'Asti, a sparkling white dessert wine that we first tasted not long ago at Esca. A crisp cool finish to the meal, we order it whenever we find it on menus.

Throughout the meal the service was gracious and attentive. Our wine glasses were never empty and we were well cared for.

I've watched Tom Colicchio again and again on Bravo as one of the judges on Top Chef. After dining in his restaurant, he may in fact be more deserving of that title than those he judges. If you find yourself in New York and want a perfectly executed memorable meal, try Craft.

P.S. On our way out, they gave us each a homemade zucchini muffin which we had for breakfast the next day. It was moist and full of fresh zucchini and cinnamon! Yum!
Craft on Urbanspoon

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Merguez lamb: not your typical weekend lunch

Five days a week, I pack lunches for my husband and myself. Usually. it's some type of sandwich so on the weekends, I like to do a little something different and summer's the perfect time to fire up the grill. Last weekend we tried some Merguez Lamb Sausages. You can find them at some grocery store and specialty markets. I got ours at Barth's Market in New Providence, NJ.


These North African sausages are zippy so I made some tzatziki to balance the spice. I served them on ciabatta rolls that I had cut in half then sliced like a hot dog bun. And we topped them with thin-sliced cucumbers and tomatoes. Served with a cold Sam Adams in a frsty mug and we were well on our way to enjoying a sunny Saturday afternoon.






Tzatziki

  • 1 cup Greek yogurt
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1/2 small cucumber, shredded or minced, excess water squeezed out
  • sea salt
  • lemon juice
  • 2 Tsp Extra Virgin Olive oil
Combine all the ingredients, adding salt and fresh lemon juice to taste. Best if made a few hours ahead so flavors can meld.

I use fat free Greek yogurt for this. I was a little skeptical the first time but it has the flavor and consistency of regular without all the fat. I like Chobani or Fage brands best, but any Greek yogurt would work. If you can't find Greek, you can use plain yogurt, just strain it over a bowl in several layers of cheesecloth for a few hours first to get the same consistency.

Also great on marinated chicken, lamb or beef kebabs.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

June Daring Bakers: Raspberry Bakewell Tart

The June Daring Bakers' challenge was hosted by Jasmine of Confessions of a Cardamom Addict and Annemarie of Ambrosia and Nectar. They chose a Traditional (UK) Bakewell Tart... er... pudding that was inspired by a rich baking history dating back to the 1800's in England.

This month's challenge was a fun one - I brought it to a father's day celebration at my sister's house and everyone loved it. It even put up a good showing against mom's homemade blueberry pie and my brother-in-law's homemade ice cream!

I decided on raspberry for my filling since the market had big red juicy raspberries that were irresistible. I also love raspberry and almond together. To make the jam I simply combined three pints of the berries in a saucepan with 1/4 cup sugar and let it cook until it was thickened. It was a bit tart but combined perfectly with the frangipane.


Bakewell Tart…er…pudding
Makes one 23cm (9” tart)
Prep time: less than 10 minutes (plus time for the individual elements)
Resting time: 15 minutes
Baking time: 30 minutes
Equipment needed: 23cm (9”) tart pan or pie tin (preferably with ridged edges), rolling pin
One quantity sweet shortcrust pastry (recipe follows)
Bench flour
250ml (1cup (8 US fl. oz)) jam or curd, warmed for spreadability
One quantity frangipane (recipe follows)
One handful blanched, flaked almonds (optional)

Assembling the tart
Place the chilled dough disc on a lightly floured surface. If it's overly cold, you will need to let it become acclimatised for about 15 minutes before you roll it out. Flour the rolling pin and roll the pastry to 5mm (1/4”) thickness, by rolling in one direction only (start from the centre and roll away from you), and turning the disc a quarter turn after each roll. When the pastry is to the desired size and thickness, transfer it to the tart pan, press in and trim the excess dough. Patch any holes, fissures or tears with trimmed bits. Chill in the freezer for 15 minutes.

Preheat oven to 200C/400F.

Remove shell from freezer, spread as even a layer as you can of jam onto the pastry base. Top with frangipane, spreading to cover the entire surface of the tart. Smooth the top and pop into the oven for 30 minutes. Five minutes before the tart is done, the top will be poofy and brownish. Remove from oven and strew flaked almonds on top and return to the heat for the last five minutes of baking.
The finished tart will have a golden crust and the frangipane will be tanned, poofy and a bit spongy-looking. Remove from the oven and cool on the counter. Serve warm, with crème fraîche, whipped cream or custard sauce if you wish.

When you slice into the tart, the almond paste will be firm, but slightly squidgy and the crust should be crisp but not tough.

Sweet shortcrust pastry
Prep time: 15-20 minutes
Resting time: 30 minutes (minimum)
Equipment needed: bowls, box grater, cling film
225g (8oz) all purpose flour
30g (1oz) sugar
2.5ml (½ tsp) salt
110g (4oz) unsalted butter, cold (frozen is better)
2 egg yolks
2.5ml (½ tsp) almond extract (optional)
15-30ml (1-2 Tbsp) cold water

Sift together flour, sugar and salt. Grate butter into the flour mixture, using the large hole-side of a box grater. Using your finger tips only, and working very quickly, rub the fat into the flour until the mixture resembles bread crumbs. Set aside.

Lightly beat the egg yolks with the almond extract (if using) and quickly mix into the flour mixture. Keep mixing while dribbling in the water, only adding enough to form a cohesive and slightly sticky dough.

Form the dough into a disc, wrap in cling and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes

Frangipane
Prep time: 10-15 minutes
Equipment needed: bowls, hand mixer, rubber spatula

125g (4.5oz) unsalted butter, softened
125g (4.5oz) icing sugar3 (3) eggs
2.5ml (½ tsp) almond extract
125g (4.5oz) ground almonds
30g (1oz) all purpose flour

Cream butter and sugar together for about a minute or until the mixture is primrose in colour and very fluffy. Scrape down the side of the bowl and add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. The batter may appear to curdle. In the words of Douglas Adams: Don’t panic. Really. It’ll be fine. After all three are in, pour in the almond extract and mix for about another 30 seconds and scrape down the sides again. With the beaters on, spoon in the ground nuts and the flour. Mix well. The mixture will be soft, keep its slightly curdled look (mostly from the almonds) and retain its pallid yellow colour.

Friday, June 26, 2009

Restaurant review: Pithari Taverna

For fabulous Greek food, you could hop a flight to Santorini or Crete, but why not grab your GPS and head to Highland Park, New Jersey? Pithari Taverna is the real thing. The owner, Tassos Stefanopoulos, will welcome you into the casual restaurant, which is decorated in traditional Greek blue and white. Take a peek into the open kitchen where the chef really is Greek!

When you're seated, you'll be served a selection of olives in garlicky extra virgin olive oil and a basket of fresh warm pita cut into triangles. Don't miss dipping the pita into the oil! The menu at Pithari is extensive, offering all of the traditional Greek dishes you'd expect.

For starters, we've tried a number of options, but there are two we never miss. The grilled octopus is other-worldly - there's a reason the menu boasts, "We are famous for it!" Served in a shallow copper pot, three tantalizing tentacles in a simple mixture of olive oil, red wine vinegar and dried oregano will leave you begging for more. If you've never tried octopus or think you won't like it, forget your fears of this eight-armed creature and order this appetizer! Tender, juicy, and extremely mild, it's not to be missed.

Our other favorite is saganaki. Kefalograviera, a dense Greek cheese, is lightly batted and then fried. Served on a sizzling platter, drizzle it with a bit of lemon and eat pieces of it on the pita. A little salty, a little chewy, and a lot cheesy, it's a great start to a meal and a crowd-pleaser.

You'll notice that the list of entrees is quite lengthy. Broken into a few categories, there's something for everyone. The first group are traditional Greek specialties, things like Moussaka, Pastitsio, Spanikopita, several lamb preparations and more. Under that is a section of Souvlaki and Gyro offerings. I don't typically order chicken in restaurants, but the chicken souvlaki is tender, juicy and packed with flavor. Served with tzatziki and your choice of starch (get the lemon potatoes), it's a simple, yet hearty meal perfectly prepared.

On the next page you'll find grilled offerings and seafood entrees. Fresh fish is a specialty at Pithari and they always have some Mediterranean fish available. You might find red mullet, porgy, orato and more, all imported fresh!

On our most recent visit, I tried a new dish while my husband went for an old favorite he hadn't tried in awhile. His dish, Arni Fricase, is a hearty stew of lamb, Greek artichoke hearts and dill in a lemon egg sauce. For a stew, the sauce is lighter than you might think. Definitely rich, the lemon lightens the taste and dill adds a unique flare!

I opted for Arni Kokkinisto Makaronada. This one had chunks of lamb as well, but the sauce was tomato based and it was served over a bed of homemade pasta, similar to a bucatini. Between lamb and pasta, I found bits of feta and they also gave me some grated Greek cheese to sprinkle on top. The lamb simply melted in your mouth and the pasta was cooked perfectly. The portion was huge so we took half home (especially after saganaki and octopus).

Sadly, I had no room left for my favorite dessert. Galaktomboureko is made from layers of fillo topped with a silky custard and more fillo. The whole thing is drizzled with Greek honey and a sprinkle of cinnamon. Few desserts are this good. Period. (I've been known to get one to-go if I'm too full!) Authentic Greek coffee is a great companion to this lush dessert.

Pithari Taverna is a restaurant we visit again and again. We've brought family and friends there and all return for more. Authentic Greek food in a casual setting with a gracious host - who could ask for more!?

Pithari on Urbanspoon

Thursday, June 25, 2009

Last supper #17: Lidia Bastianich

The name alone tells you this one has to be Italian - but that could mean anything. It could be a complicated meal involving numerous courses. Or it could be a simple, classic dish. Fortunately for this cook, it was the latter. For her last supper, Lidia Bastianich wanted linguine with white clam sauce. Easy, enough, right? There was one hitch for me - my husband is horribly allergic to clams so I had to make this when he wasn't around or prepare two dinners.



The perfect occasion presented itself when my Dad recently came back from a trip to Martha's Vineyard. As he often does, he went quahogging on the island and delivered me a fresh dozen littleneck clams. So, while one pan sauteed chicken for Jeff, I whipped up some white clam sauce for myself.


The clams really make the meal. You just can't find any fresher, sweeter clams! When I was little, we vacationed on Martha's Vineyard every summer and one year, we met three islanders who clammed for a living. As we got to know them, they'd give us fresh clams regularly. Most of their catch went to local seafood markets. Over the years they became close friends of my parents. In fact, the woman, Frances just celebrated her 90th birthday! Some years ago, they taught my dad their trade so we now get clams whenever he heads to the island!


Here's my recipe. I improvised a bit so quantities aren't exact. Like more garlic? Add it. Prefer less parsley? Go for it. The only thing you have to get perfect is the clams. Everything else comes together... This serves 1-2, so multiply accordingly. Figure about a dozen small clams per person.

Pasta with white clam sauce


2 cloves garlic, minced
1 pat of butter
1 Tbsp. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
1/2 cup white wine
1-2 dozen fresh clams, scrubbed
Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper, to taste
Pasta, preferably linguine or angel hair

Prepare pasta according to package directions.

While the pasta is cooking, heat the butter and oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and saute for about a minute. Don't brown the garlic. Add the white wine and bring to a simmer. Add the clams and parsley and cover the pan. Let the clams steam until they've all just opened. Discard any that don't open.

Season with salt and pepper and pour the whole thing over the cooked pasta.

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Index of Recipes

Now that Ladyberd's Kitchen is over a year old, it's about time I added an index of recipes. I've grouped it by course, so have a look thru. And as always if I post about something but don't leave a recipe, feel free to leave a comment and I'll send you the recipe. For easy reference, I'll put a link to the index on the right. Check back often to see what's new!


Breakfast
Appetizers & First Courses
Soups
Main courses

Chicken
Beef
Pork
Lamb
Fish and Seafood
Pasta/Pizza
Side Dishes
Desserts
Sauces and cooking basics
(64)

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Restaurant review: Bel Paese Cranford

"I am a pasta fanatic." Those were the words of Bel Paese's owner, Enzo, as he took our order and told us about his specialties. A native Italian, you can tell Enzo loves what he does and has a real passion for food. And he was right. His was some of the best pasta around.

But I'm getting ahead of myself...

We often passed this little restaurant on our way to other spots in Cranford. One day a co-worker of mine mentioned it and siad the food was terrific. Since then, it's been on my must-try list. So Friday night, we decided to give it a shot.

We made a reservation and grabbed a bottle of our favorite Italian wine. Upon entering, we were seated at small table toward the back. By day, Bel Paese is a deli, so don't expect elegant decor. It's clean and the service friendly, but it's casual - you could bring kids here without worrying. One thing I noticed immediately was the giant silver barrel of Extra Virgin Olive Oil on the counter and the huge espresso machine behind it. I had a good feeling about this place...

We were served some bread and butter as we looked over the menu. Next time, I'll skip the bread. It wasn't bad, but it wasn't great. Once we ordered, we were brought two servings of bruschetta. The tomato topping was delicious, but the bread was again a bit lacking.

The menu is extensive. You'll find all the traditional dishes most people look for in an Italian restaurant: Chicken and Veal Parmigiana, Penne with vodka sauce, fried calamari. You'll also find some more unusual preparations of veal, chicken, fish and shrimp, as well as numerous pastas. Most appetizers are about $10 and most of the entrees are $15-$20. There are also a number of specials.

To start, we chose two appetizers off the main menu. One was a Stuffed artichoke and the other was Bocconcino al Forno. The Artichoke was huge and packed with breadcrumbs, garlic, more garlic, some pine nuts and some provolone cheese. It was delicious - did I mention the garlic? The Bocconcino were simply divine. There were four sizeable rounds of fresh, homemade mozzarella, each topped with a piece of prosciutto and a sprinkle of garlicky breadcrumbs. Around them on the plate was a bit of homemade tomato sauce. The whole thing was baked until the breadcrumbs were toasted and the cheese warmed through but not melted. The flavor was spectacular. Both appetizers were large portions - one would have sufficed for the two of us.

Then came the main course. My husband order a special that had veal scallopine with portobello mushrooms, peas, shrimp, melted cheese and tomato sauce. It came with a generous side of penne with the same sauce. At first glance, I noted that there was a good amount of mushrooms on it, but it looked like there weren't many shrimp - Jeff corrected me and said there were about 10 shrimp on the dish! I tasted it (twice) and it was excellent. The veal was tender, the mushrooms cooked perfectly. Definitely something we'd get again.
I ordered a pasta special - after all, Enzo is a pasta fanatic. It was called Boscaiola - homemade fettucine with crumbled sausage, bacon, parsley, mushrooms, egg, and cheese. One bite and I was back in Rome on my honeymoon. This pasta was delicious. There's no comparison to the stuff that comes out of a box - this was homemade - and fresh! And the flavors in the dish combined perfectly. The portion was huge too. About halfway thru his veal, we decided that the veal would travel better so Jeff pushed his plate aside and happily helped me thru my pasta. We were both stuffed and took half of his veal and about a quarter of my pasta home.

We had no room for dessert, but they do offer an extensive list of Italian desserts. We each had an espresso - reasonably priced at only $2.

If you find yourself in Cranford, let Enzo take care of you. It's obvious that he has a passion for what he does. Don't let the casual atmosphere alter your expectations. Try the pasta. I will certainly go back any time I miss Italy!

Enzo - if you're reading this, we will be back and we will bring friends and family. We felt welcome in your restaurant and your pasta is simply delicious. Thanks for a great meal!


Bel Paese on Urbanspoon
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