Halibut a la Barigoule

Each year, we host Mother's Day dinner at our house. Last year, 7 months pregnant, I decided on a Greek menu because it's nice and easy. This year, with a 10-month-old, I picked another easy menu: steaks, grilled veggies, a couple appetizers... nothing fancy. Mom was bringing a tray of her famous manicotti. Perfect - and simple enough to let me enjoy the day with my tiny one. But instead of hosting a party, I was a mom.

A few days before Mother's Day, little one's school informed us that Coxsackie Virus was making its way around the baby room... I arrived for the Mother's Day tea to find a baby with a fever. She awoke the next day with a few of the tell-tale spots that accompany the virus so I quickly rang Grandma to cancel the festivities. Even though she was sick with little spots all over her precious face and hands, she was still the best part of Mother's Day. We had a picnic in the park and played all day. It might not have been what we'd planned, but it was perfect all the same.

Aside from spending time with her, I wanted a nice meal. Halibut happens to be my all-time favorite fish and this particular recipe is fantastic. Lots of basil, artichokes, beans with a hint of bacon. So this was my Mother's Day dinner. It's great for a special occasion - it would also be goosd for a dinner party: you can make the barigoule ahead of time and just stir in the basil at the end and cook the fish. Don't forget to soak the beans a day ahead!



Halibut a la Barigoule
adapted from the Balthazar Cookbook by Keith McNally

2 cups loosely packed basil leaves
½ teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
½ cup plus 3 tablespoons olive oil
½ pint pearl onions, peeled
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 ½ teaspoons salt
3 medium carrots, cut into 1/4-inch half-moons
12 baby artichokes, cleaned and thinly sliced
1 cup white wine
5 cups chicken stock
1 cup white beans (recipe follows)
6 halibut fillets
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

Prepare the Basil Purée:
Prepare an ice-water bath in a medium bowl and bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the basil and blanch for 1 minute. Strain, plunge the leaves into the ice bath, and reserve ¼ cup of the cooking water. Remove the leaves from the ice water and squeeze to remove as much liquid as possible. Place in the work bowl of a food processor along with the reserved ¼ cup of liquid and process until smooth, green, and bright. Refrigerate until needed.

Cook the Artichokes:
Wrap the coriander seeds, peppercorns, and bay leaf in cheesecloth to make a sachet. Set aside. Heat ¼ cup of olive oil in a large sauté pan over a medium flame. Add the onions and garlic along with 1 teaspoon of salt and sauté until the onions are soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the carrots and herb sachet and cook for 5 minutes.

When the carrots have softened, add the sliced artichokes and the wine. Bring to a simmer and reduce the liquid by half, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and simmer for 30 minutes. Stir in the cooked white beans, if using, and keep warm over a low flame while the halibut is cooked.
Cook the Fish:
Preheat the oven to 400 F.

Dry the halibut fillets and season with the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt and the ¼ teaspoon white pepper.
Use 2 large sauté pans to cook the fish or, if using 1 pan, cook the fish in 2 batches. Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in the sauté pan until the oil smokes. Place 3 of the fillets in the pan and cook for 2 minutes per side. Transfer the pan to the preheated oven to finish cooking for 5 minutes, or until the fish just begins to flake around the edges.
Just before serving, remove the spice sachet from the broth, add the basil puree, and add the remaining ¼ cup of olive oil. Stir well to combine, and spoon the warm barigoule sauce into 6 shallow bowls, with a halibut fillet in the center.

Serves 6. To adapt it for two, I made the beans as shown, but reserved some for another use. I halved everything else and used just 2 halibut filets.

White Beans
adapted from the Balthazar Cookbook by Keith McNally

1/2 pound dried white beans
1 leek
2 cups chicken stock
1 carrot, peeled and cut into thirds
1 celery stalk, cut into thirds
1 medium onion, halved
half a head of garlic, cut through the equator
1 Tbsp. coarse salt (less if your stock is salty)
3 thick slices smoked bacon, cut into lardons
Bouquet garni made with 1 bay leaf, 1 tsp. black peppercorns, 6 sprigs parsley and 3 springs thyme

Put the beans in a large bowl, cover with cold water and soak overnight.

The next day, drain the beans in a colander and rince with cold water. Transfer to a pot and cover with water. bring to a boil over high heat. When the foam subsides, drain and rinse the beans again.

Return the beans to the pot with the remaining ingredients. (Careful with the salt - your stock and bacon will also add saltiness). Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Skim off any foam that rises to the top. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 45 minutes or until the beans are cooked. Taste them often to be sure you get the right consistency.

Surf and Turf, French Laundry style

In a burst of energy (or perhaps a moment of weakness), I decided to have a go at another French Laundry recipe on Saturday night. I selected "Surf and Turf", braised oxtails with seared monkfish, topped with sauteed salsify and cepes. Pretty ambitious considering I was unsure of finding any of the main ingredients...



Thus began the shopping trip. I started at my local farm market... no cepes or salsify there, but I got the makings for the brunoise and the braising liquid. Next morning, off I went again. At my first stop I found oxtails - ok I now had 1 of 4 main ingredients. I grabbed a package of crimini mushrooms just in case I couldn't find cepes. Then I moved onto the next store...



As I neared the seafood counter, a glistening piece of monkfish caught my eye. But it was just one lonely piece - I had a bad feeling... I asked the fishmonger if it was fresh and he very honestly shook his head no... Well, that fish was not for me, thank you very much. I rounded the corner to produce and was greeted by a beautiful sight: a whole line of D'Artagnan gourmet mushrooms... But, no cepes. I grabbed come royal trumpets which worked out beautifully. No salsify there either. At that point I decided I could live without salsify, but I could not make surf and turf without the surf...



I pulled into a little seafood market in Westfield, NJ, and walked in. I scanned the counter and saw two beautiful pieces of what looked like monkfish tail, but the sign said... catfish??? So I asked and I was right, monkfish! I carried my trreasure home and got started...



In lieu of typing the entire recipe, I'm going to save myself from a case of carpal tunnel and instead share a link directly to it. Needless to say, I left out the salsify and we didn't miss it. The oxtails had a rich full flavor - similar to that of braised shortribs. The fish was mild, and perhaps a bit overpowered by the rich beef. The Royal Trumpet mushrooms were meaty and delicious atop the whole thing. I served it with a simple salad of mache, jicama and sliced avocado with a dijon vinaigrette. A dish I would definitely make again - perhaps after I try a few more of Keller's concoctions... So check back to see when I get the French Laundry out again!

An Ad Hoc Valentine's Day: Roasted Monkfish over Leeks and Romesco Sauce

My love affair with Ad Hoc at Home continued this weekend as I prepared Thomas Keller's Roasted monkfish with baby leeks and Romesco Sauce. Romesco is a Spanish sauce made with tomato, red pepper, bread, and a few other ingredients. It's a sauce I've made many times before, typically served on grilled scallions. Keller's recipe was slightly different so I tried his for a change. It was delicious - a bit sweeter than my other recipe.



I couldn't find baby leeks, so I got some regular leeks, trimmed the roots leaving the bottoms intact so the leeks didn't fall apart and then follow the recipe in Ad Hoc for Baby leeks. The fish I did exactly as he said, but cooked mine a bit longer - the pieces of fish were quite thick as you can see from the picture. Flown in fresh that morning, this was the best monkfish we've ever had. I thank both my fish guy who special ordered it for me as well as Chef Keller!

Pair this fish with other sides or sauces if you prefer. It's a great preparation that would go nicely with any number of combinations. Bottom line, follow Keller's method and you simply can't go wrong! I cut the recipes in half and made a few modifications, so my version are below. The fish is exactly Keller's but with half the ingredients. The others I modified a bit...

Roasted monkfish
adapted from Ad Hoc at Home by Thomas Keller

2 8-ounce monkfish tail fillets
Canola oil (to coat the pan)
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 garlic cloves, smashed, skin left on
3 medium rosemary sprigs
Romesco sauce, warmed (see below)
Baby leeks (see below)

Remove the fish from the refrigerator and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Heat some canola oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat until it just smokes. Season the fish with salt then place it in the pan, presentation side down (the rounded side). Cook until the first side is pale golden. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter to the pan and let it melt. Add the second tablespoon and let that melt (adding them at the same time could lower the temperature in the pan). Once the butter has browned, tilt the pan and baste the fish as you continue to cook it until it is a rich golden brown on the first side, 1-2 more minutes.

Turn the fish over and cook, basting continuously with the butter, until it is a rich golden brown on the second side, 4-5 minutes. Add the garlic and rosemary to the pan, and continue to baste the fish as the aromatics flavor the butter. Cook until the temperature in the center of the fish is 145F. (Keller says 1-2 minutes, mine took about 5).

Spread the Romesco on a plate. Top with a few leeks. Then place the fish on top. If you want, finish with some good extra virgin olive oil and Maldon Sea Salt.

Baby Leeks

12 baby leeks, or 4 regular leeks, trimmed and halved lengthwise so they don't fall apart
3 Tbsp. chicken stock
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Prepare an ice water bath. Set out a cooling rack and line with paper towels.

Trim the dark green parts from the leeks and rinse well under warm water. Blanch the leeks for about 6 minutes until just tender. Immediately transfer to the ice water bath to cool, then place on the rack to drain.

Remove the outer layer from each leek. Bring the stuck to a simmer in a medium saute pan. Whisk in the butter one piece at a time to make an emulsification. Add the leeks and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Romesco Sauce

1 dried sweet chile (I used New Mexico, but Nora or Pasilla would also work)
3 plum tomatoes, cored and halved lengthwise
1/2 red bell pepper, cored and seeded
1/2 onion
1 garlic clove
1/8 cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Canola oil
3 crustless 2-in cubes country bread
1/8 cup slivered almonds
1 Tbsp. sherry vinager
1/2 tsp. sweet paprika
3/4 tsp. piment d'espelette (I used a pinch of cayenne and a pinch of smoked paprika instead)

Preheat over to 400F.

Remove the seed and stem from the chile. Put it in a small bowl, cover with warm water and soak for 30 minutes.

Put the tomatoes, bell pepper, onion and garlic ina roasting pan and toss with the olive oil, salt and pepper. Turn the tomatoes and pepper cut side down. Roast for one hour, until the vegetables are well-browned with some charring. Remove from the oven and let cool slightly.

Remove the skins from the tomatoes and pepper. Discard the outer layer of the onion. Reserve any liquid in the pan.

Heat some canola oil in a small frying pan over medium heat. Add the bread and toast until browned on all sides. Remove from the pan. Add the nuts and toast until fragrant, about 30 seconds to 1 minute. Transfer to a plate.

Drain the chile. Put it in a blender with the tomatoes, pepper, onion, garlic, and reserved liquid. Blend until smooth. Add remaining ingredients and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Makes about 1 cup. Refrigerate covered for up to 2 weeks.

Elegant fish: Curry-infused cod with braised leeks

Mom always told me to read a recipe thru completely before starting... I didn't listen. I typically scan the list of ingredients and go on my merry way. I must say it has caused some rather tasty mishaps over the years. On other occasions, it's created some undue stress in the otherwise peaceful haven that is my kitchen. On Saturday, it was a little bit of both.

I decided to try the Curry-Infused Cod with Braised Leeks and Crispy Potatoes from Cooking with Curtis by Curtis Stone. I love leeks, I love curry, and cod was on special. Perfect! So on Saturday at about 3 p.m. I decided to get things prepped. I read the first few lines of the recipe and realized I was supposed to infuse the oil for 24 hours and then marinate the fish for 12. I had about 4 hours total, maybe 5 if we ate a little late. Hmmmm...

So, I improvised. I took a few shortcuts and I must say it turned out wonderful. Maybe not what Curtis intended, but I'll make it again and probably repeat my blunders - I might cut back a little on the spices, we shall see. What follows is my version... (by the way, the smashed potatoes are super fun to make!)

Curry-infused Cod with Braised Leeks and Crispy Potatoes
adapted from Cooking with Curtis

• 1 tsp. turmeric
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• 1 tsp. paprika
• 1 tsp. ground coriander
• 1 tsp. fennel seeds, ground
• 2 tsp. madras curry powder
• 1/3 cup grapeseed oil
• 2 portions fresh cod, skinless
• olive oil
• 1 carrot, peeled and cut into thin strips
• 1 celery stalk, cut into thin strips
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 4 leeks, white and light green parts only, trimmed close to the root so they hold together, then quartered lengthwise
• 1 1/4 cups chicken stock
• 12 baby new potatoes
• 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cold
• salt and pepper to taste

Combine all the spices in a small pan and heat until fragrant. Stir in the oil, then let it come to room temperature. Strain it to get and large spices out. Pour it into a shallow dish and add the fish, turning to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 3 hours.

Bring a pan of water to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook for about 15 minutes until just cooked. Strain and set aside to cool slightly. Once cooled, lightly smash each (this is wicked fun) with the bottom of a saucepan. You want to break the skin, but the smashed potato should stay in one piece.

Heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil in a pan and add the carrot, celery, onion and garlic. Sweat for about 3 minutes then add the leeks and stock. Simmer until the veggies are tender. Remove the carrots, leeks and celery to a plate and keep warm. Swirl the cold butter into the pan and let it reduce for a few minutes.

Heat a frying pan with a little olive oil. Add the potatoes, sprinkling them with salt and pepper to taste. Fry on both sides until brown and crispy.

Heat a third pan, preferably non-stick, and add the fish, cooking a few minutes on each side until just cooked. Sprinkle it with a little salt, too. My fish was thick so it took 4-5 minutes a side. Thinner pieces will only need 2-3 per side. A toothpick stuck in the fish should encounter no resistance.

To finish the sauce, puree it with an immersion blender.

To serve, arrange some of the vegetables on the plate. Top each with a piece of fish. Pile some potatoes on the side then pour the sauce around it.

Serves 2. Can easily be doubled or tripled for more people.

Eye-popping color, simple salmon

Recipes appeal to me for a number of reason, as I'm sure they do any cook. Some catch my eye because of unique ingredients or techniques, some because of their level of difficulty. This salmon recipe was all about color. Bright green sugar snap peas, sunny yellow peppers and fresh pink salmon - simply gorgeous. The flavors and textures vary as well, providing a range that's sure to please your palate.

I adapted this for two from the August issue of Bon Appetit (find it on epi). At this time of year, most of the ingredients are easily found at the farmer's market. You can make the pistou a few hours ahead so the flavors come together. I made it after work and the whole meal took me about 35 minutes. Easy! (and super healthy - salmon's chock full of Omega 3's and snap peas have lots of fiber.)

Salmon filet with snap peas, yellow peppers and dill-almond pistou

1/3 cup chopped fresh dill
1/3 cup finely chopped scallions
1/2 cup skinned almonds, toasted, chopped
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 yellow bell peppers cut into strips about the size of the snap peas
8 ounces sugar snap peas, trimmed, strings removed
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 cup water
1 12-14-oz. filet of salmon, cut into 2 or 3 pieces
Lemon wedges, for serving
Make the pistou: Once the toasted almonds are cooled, combine them in a small bowl with the dill and scallions. Add a drizzle of olive oil and salt to taste then set aside at room temperature.
Heat 1/2 Tbsp. olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the peppers and cook until slightly softened. Add the garlic, snap peas and water. Spinkle with a little salt. Cook until the snap peas are heated thru but still crisp and the water has evaporated. Stir in a heaping tablespoon of the pistou and stir. Pour the vegetables onto a platter and set aside.
Sprinkle fish on both sides with salt and pepper.
In same pan over medium-high heat, add 1/2 Tbsp. olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the fish, skin side down. Cook about 3-4 minutes until skin is crispy. Turn the fish over and cook about 3-4 more minutes until just cooked through. Arrange on top of vegetables. Put a scoop of pistou on each piece of fish.
Serve with lemon wedges.
I served this with a simple side of Trader Joe's Harvest Grains - a mix of Israeli couscous, red quinoa, orzo, and baby garbanzos. I cookd the grains in chicken broth then added a little dill, lemon and some fresh chives.

Moroccan Fish Tagine: A New Favorite!

I'm not sure how my husband managed to eat this meal since he seemed to spend the whole time singing its praises... but there wasn't a scrap left in his dish at the end. About 6 months ago, my sister gave me an authentic Moroccan tagine - a terracotta pot with a cone-shaped lid. The lid has a single little hole in one side near the top to let just a little steam out. Most of the moisture stays inside, creating moist tender dishes. So far, I've only used it for chicken. But she also gave me a copy of Ghillie Basan's cookbook called Tagine: Spicy Stews from Morocco, so I decided to give this one a go.

The ingredients are pretty basic, so don't let the fact that it is Moroccan deter you. No tagine? Just use a heavy pot with a lid. (It won't look as cool on the stove, but it'll taste great.)




Tagine of Monkfish, Potatoes, Cherry Tomatoes and Black Olives
adapted from Tagine: Spicy Stews from Morocco by Ghillie Basan

• About 1 lb. monkfish, cut into chunks
• 4 new potatoes
• 3 Tbsp. Olive oil
• 1 pat of butter
• 3-4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 12-16 cherry or grape tomatoes
• about 12 fleshy black olives - I used Kalamata
• 1 green bell pepper, broiled until black, peeled and then cut into strips
• sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• lemon wedges, to serve

For the Chermoula

• 2 cloves garlic
• 1 tsp. coarse salt
• 1 heaping tsp. cumin seeds
• 1 red or green chile, seeded and chopped
• freshly squeezed juice of one lemon
• 2 Tbsp. olive oil
• a small bunch of fresh cilantro, roughly chopped

First, make the chermoula. Using a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic with the salt to a smooth paste. Add the cumin and chile and mash a bit. Add the lemon juice and olive oil. Finally, stir in the cilantro. Put the fish in a shallow dish and rub it with about three quarters of the chermoula. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 1-2 hours. Reserve the remaining chermoula.

Meanwhile, bring a saucepan of water to a boil and drop in the potatoes. Boil vigorously until almost cooked, but still a bit hard - the original recipe says 8 minutes for small potatoes. I did mine about 11 but probably could have let them go a minute or two longer. Remove them from the water and set aside.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil with the pat of butter in the bottom of a tagine or heavy bottomed pan. Add the garlic and stir. When the garlic starts to brown, add the tomatoes to soften them a bit. Add the peppers and the reserved chermoula. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Tip this mixture onto a plate.

Arrange the potatoes over the bottom of the tagine and spread half of the tomato mixture over them. Place the chunks of marinated fish over the center then spoon the rest of the tomato mixture over the top. Tuck the olives in around the fish and drizzle with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Pour in about 1/2 cup of water. Cover and let steam for 15-20 minutes, until the fish and potatoes are cooked through. Serve immediately with lemon wedges.